History of Surfing & The Hawaiian Culture

Surfing, or "he'e nalu" in Hawaiian, traces its origins back over a thousand years to the islands of Hawaii. This ancient sport was much more than a pastime for early Hawaiians; it was a way of life and a deeply spiritual practice.

• Cultural Significance: Surfing was enjoyed by all, from commoners to ali'i (royalty). It played a central role in daily life and ceremonies, with competitions often held to showcase skill and strength. Some surfers even sought guidance from the gods to improve their abilities.
• Social Hierarchies: Chiefs used larger koa wood boards, while commoners used lighter woods like wiliwili. The size and material of surfboards reflected social status, with ali'i boards being larger and more elaborate, while commoners’ boards were simpler, but still essential to the culture.

Surfing was an integral part of ancient Hawaiian culture. The connection between the people and the ocean was profoundly spiritual, with rituals and ceremonies often accompanying surfing activities. Surfing wasn’t just a sport. It was a reflection of Hawaiian values, traditions, and respect for the natural world. It was believed that the ocean, or "moana," was alive, and surfers communicated with the sea through their skill, humility, and reverence.

• Leadership and Skill: Chiefs demonstrated their prowess through surfing. The ability to surf well was not only seen as a sign of strength but also leadership and wisdom. Chiefs, or ali'i, were expected to excel in many areas, including surfing, which symbolized their connection to the gods and the natural world. Their ability to ride the waves was a demonstration of their power and influence, inspiring others and solidifying their status within the community.
• Makahiki Season: The Makahiki season was a time of peace and celebration, marked by religious festivals and surfing competitions. During this time, traditional warfare was suspended, and the focus shifted to honoring the gods, especially Lono, the god of fertility, agriculture, and peace. Surfing competitions were held to celebrate the season, with chiefs and commoners alike participating. These events were not only a display of skill but also a form of spiritual offering as surfers sought to demonstrate their harmony with nature and the divine. The Makahiki season helped reinforce the importance of surfing in Hawaiian culture, blending sport, spirituality, and social unity.

The 19th century saw a decline in surfing due to Western influence, as colonization and the introduction of Christianity led to the suppression of many Hawaiian traditions, including surfing. Surfing was viewed as a pagan activity and was banned in some areas, which caused the sport to nearly disappear. However, the early 20th century marked a turning point for surfing, with its revival largely credited to Duke Kahanamoku, a Hawaiian swimmer and surf pioneer.

• Global Influence: Duke Kahanamoku played a pivotal role in reintroducing surfing to the world. As an Olympic gold medalist in swimming, Duke gained international fame, and he used his platform to showcase the sport of surfing. During the 1910s and 1920s, he gave surfing demonstrations in California, Australia, and other parts of the world, captivating audiences with his skill and grace on the waves. These demonstrations sparked worldwide interest in surfing, with people in places like California, Australia, and even Europe eager to try the sport for themselves.
• Duke's influence helped bring surfing out of its period of obscurity, and by the mid-20th century, it was becoming a global phenomenon. Surfing culture began to spread, aided by films, magazines, and the rise of surf culture in the 1960s. As a result, surfing, which had been an ancient tradition on the shores of Hawaii, became a beloved sport and lifestyle in countries all over the world. The sport's revival was not just a return to the ocean for Hawaiians but a global movement that reconnected people to the waves in ways that transcended cultures.

At Ohana Surf Project, we invite you to learn the art of surfing and immerse yourself in its rich history and cultural significance.

• Our Lessons: Our experienced instructors teach you how to ride the waves with skill and respect, just as the ancient Hawaiians did.
• Book Your Lesson: Whether you are a beginner or an experienced surfer, our lessons offer a unique blend of fun, education, and cultural appreciation.